Back to the West Highland Way

Had two good runs on the West Highland Way last week. Sunday started out looking  quite miserable -cold and  wet, but as the afternoon progressed it cleared up . As the first ( or last) section  of the West Highland Way is closed for tree felling I had to jog up the road to Lundavra which is two miles shorter than the normal way from Glen Nevis.
 Once  on the Lairig Mor I really enjoyed  the misty, moody atmostphere
. In Kinlochleven I paused for a tea. The view from the pub was amazing - the Pap of Glencoe silhouetted against a yellow and  orange sunset  and  both reflected perfectly in the still loch. There was enough daylight to get most halfway along  the Lairig Mor before I had to dig out my head torch.

On Tuesday I ran from Fort William to Bridge of Orchy . The forecast was bad and reality didn't disapppoint . It was really wet and windy on the Lairig Mor. Despite a good waterproof and  quite a few layers underneath I was soon wet through and  the strong headwind began to cool me. By the time I reached Kinlochleven I was frozen. However pot of  hot tea at the Tailrace Inn ( what a bargain at £ 1.40) and  putting on two extra layers of clothing sorted me out. I had reservations about carrying  on due to the severity of the  weather, but when I emerged from the pub I found  the  wind  had dropped and  the rain lessened. The next section to Glencoe was a delight ; the mountains wreathed in clouds,the rushing burns, the churring  of grouse for company, it was so good to be back on the West Highland Way.
At Kingshouse I took a quick look at the new cafe and  bunkhouse which looks quite smart. The main hotel is closed pending  a drastic refurbishment / demolition . From there it was up onto Rannoch Moor. Half way along  I met a walker and  we spent  a few minutes enthusing about the place. Even on a grey wet day it has a magic about it - being  totally surrounded by mountains and moorland . The only indication of civilization is the foot bruising cobbles of Telford's road which was built in 1803 and  apparently was the main road north until the 1930's.
I was quite tired when I reached Bridge of Orchy . I sat in the pub beside the blazing wood stove and  drank coffee. I rued my decision to have a dry January because a pint would have been lovely, shame it was the last day of  the month and not Februuary!
Helen was returning from a trip to see her parents so I was able to surprise her when I got on the train  home.

The two pictures on this post have no connection to the West Highlnd Way. I have been doing a series of simple landscapes with dramatic skies. The top picture is the coast near Arisaig, the bottom    one the fire road near Spean Bridge.

Bridge of Orchy Runs

Glen Etive

 We've had a couple of good runs from Bridge of Orchy to Fort William recently.
 It is one of my favourite runs and a really good test of fitness without being too exhausting. We can get a cheap train ticket to Bridge of Orchy from home and start running just ater 9 am. Once over the hill behind the hotel there is a short section of tarmac then on to Telford's road. Built in 1803 it was the main road until 1933 but is now a remote track over Rhannoch Moor. The cobbles are still there and are hard on the feet ! Once you get to Kingshouse you feel you've done something, but it is wonderful; the mountains of Glencoe and Glen Etive are all around and only the busy A82 detracts from the wild beauty of the place.
The next hurdle is the Devil's Staircase apparently named by hard pressed soldiers on road building duties in the time  of General Wade. Later workers on the Blackwater dam would use the route to get to the Kingshouse Hotel to spend their wages on a Friday night. Returning was sometimes more difficult than anticipated! I like the staircase but dislike the track into Kinlochleven which is steep and gravelly and although downhill seems to go for ever.
Kinlochleven is a good place to get drinks or food before the steep climb onto  the Lairig Mor( big pass)  and consists of 15miles of   undulating rocky track through the mountains. Just now the heather is in bloom giving  the hillsides a beautiful purple tinge but even more striking is the wonderful smell of honey that fills the air.
 On the 2nd February 1645 The forces of Montrose chased the Campbells of Argyll through here after defeating them at the battle of Inverlochy. They must have been tough in those days to fight a battle then run through the Lairig Mor in the depths of winter!
The final stage of the run is the descent into Glen Nevis with the majestic Ben as backdrop.

Sunset  on the west coast

West Highland Way Training Run

I'm just back from a three day West Highland Way run.
 I took the train to Milngavie on Monday and started at about 12.30. It was a lovely sunny day- as it was when I last ran the West Highland Way in June. Then bluebells were out and the cuckoo was calling . This time  there was meadowsweet, rosebay willowherb,foxgloves and himalayan balsam  in flower. The cuckoos have sadly departed for Africa.
 I love the variety of the West Highland Way. It starts in thge suburbs of Glasgow goes through a wooded park then into farmland, then forestry, moorland and heatherclad hill. Then comes the gorgeous but lengthy Loch Lomond section before the dramatic mountains and high passes.
I used to find the first section of the WHW a bit boring; I was always champing at the bit to get into the real Highlands, but the last couple of times the weather has been fine and the countryside has looked so beautifully green and the wild flowers so profuse that I really enjoyed it.
At Balmaha I bought food and water at the shop then carried beside Loch Lomond.There was a lovely holiday atmostphere with children in swimming and families having barbecues on the shore.
As the evening progressed I began to wonder where to spend the night . Previously I have slept under a rock or just bedded down in my bivvy bag on the path . However the two hazards of sleeping  out in this area are the rain and the midges- there was no rain but the midges were fierce.
  I followed a new sign pointing out the lower route of the West Highland Way( which I have never done before as I normally keep to the upper track) and chanced upon the Rowchoish bothy. I normally try to get beyond Inversnaid on the first day but the bothy was a chance of a midge free night so I decided to stay. There were three guys from East London there and later an unexpected but enchanting  visitor: Hearing a rustling  noise in the eaves I put my headtorch on and there sat  a pine marten chewing  a piece of plastic. For a while he hid behind a beam but his tail was hanging down in clear view.
The Londoners asked whether I minded that they had set an alarm for 8am, I said that I too was planning an early start, but I didn't have the heart to tell them that I had set my alarm for 3.30am. I was back on the trail by 4.00 am.

Loch Lomond on Tuesday-it was a beautiful sunny afternoon.

I found running  on the second day quite tough partly because I didn't get any coffee in the morning! I had hoped to get some at Beinglas but they were not yet open when I passed. It was a beautiful day although it became cloudy later on. The lack of caffeine and tiredness started to tell on me by the time I reached the switchback path through the forest above Crianlarich and I fell and grazed my arm.
At Strathfillan campsite I finally got some coffee and it was very welcome.Refreshed I picked up speed and arrived at Bridge of Orchy at midday nearly three hours before my train: I could have spent longer in bed! I treated myself to a pint of guiness in the hotel.
At home I had a bath, a nice meal, and a good sleep before getting the morning train back to Bridge of Orchy for the final leg. The  forecast for Wednesday was dire - The weather map showed a band of rain sweeping across Scotland . In the event it wasn't too bad , the rain was persistent but only heavy at times, and it was surprisingly warm. The sixty miles over the previous two days were telling  on my legs but I was able to keep up a reasonable pace.
At Kingshouse I spoke to a man in a high viz vest who told me that they are going  to knock most of the hotel down and build a bigger version! The Kings House is a historic 17th century hotel(one of the oldest licensed premises in the country) with a lot of character, and is in an iconic position at the gateway to Glencoe. I do hope they don't lose that character in the modernization, and  that some of the older parts will be retained ( apparently the climber's bar is staying).
 I reached Kinlochleven by 2pm but struggled on the climb on to the Lairig Mor, however even in the rain the  pass is a beautiful place and I was able to savour this last section.
I cheated on the  final mile  because Helen had  come  to the Braveheart car park and was waiting  too pick me up.
As always doing the WHW is a very satisfying  way of training , it is a route I know and  love but it doesn't get any easier. It is a good test of fitness which at the moment is a bit lacking.

Sketch of two ladies on the train from Bridge of Orchy

A Weekend On The West Highland Way

Yesterday I took the train to Milngavie.
 It was a lovely afternoon , I headed out along the West Highland Way. Near the far end of Mugdock Park I saw a water vole on the path. This is the first time I've seen a water vole for about thirty years. When I was growing up in Essex water voles were a common sight on waterways and ponds.  Their  dramatic decline is thought to be mainly due to predation by mink an alien species descended from escapees from fur farms.It was  really heartening to see this little animal; Maybe Ratty from 'Wind In The Willows' is making a comeback.
Just beyond Balmaha I climbed the little hill to the view point and did the above sketch  of Loch Lomond. Every few miles I heard cuckoos and also got a good view of woodpecker.
 This year the primroses are especially good.In contrast to two weeks ago when I did the Highland Fling Race the trees are a riot of green. Things seem to be further advanced on Loch Lomondside than in Lochaber. Even the beech trees are in leaf their delicate translucent leaves shimmering in the breeze.
I progressed slowly along Loch Lomondside and ended up just north of Inversnaid. By then it was raining, and I was looking for somewhere to spend the night. I found a rock with a decent overhang and bedded dowwn there in my sleeping bag and bivvy bag . Thanks to the rock I didn't get wet at all despite persistent rain all night.
Today I jogged further on the WHW. Near Tyndrum I bumped into my good friend Tony an inveterate ultrarunner who has completed more than ten West Highland Way races as well as the UTMB and Marathon des Sables, He is an inspiration! He was with his friend Craig . We ran together to Bridge of Orchy, I struggled to keep up - my fitness certainly needs some work.

Quick sketch from the station as I waited for the train.

I got the train home from Bridge of Orchy for a bath some food and a beer. I've had a  very enjoyable two days with about 60 miles of running.                

W.H.W. training

We both had Wednesday off so we did another long run , this time we got the train to Bridge of Orchy and ran back  from there.We were expecting bad weather but it turned out warm and sunny again- unbelievable! No time for any sketching as we needed to get the train home from the Fort. Unfortunately we were slow because I still have a sore back  having strained it coughing - I seem to be a bit of a hypochondriac  at the moment. However it was still a brilliant day out, the northern part West Highland Way really is a gorgeous route.
I did paint a two quick pictures this week , one loosely based on Loch Linnhe the other a made up view.

Loch Linnhe

West Coast Sunset