I took the train to Milngavie on Monday and started at about 12.30. It was a lovely sunny day- as it was when I last ran the West Highland Way in June. Then bluebells were out and the cuckoo was calling . This time there was meadowsweet, rosebay willowherb,foxgloves and himalayan balsam in flower. The cuckoos have sadly departed for Africa.
I love the variety of the West Highland Way. It starts in thge suburbs of Glasgow goes through a wooded park then into farmland, then forestry, moorland and heatherclad hill. Then comes the gorgeous but lengthy Loch Lomond section before the dramatic mountains and high passes.
I used to find the first section of the WHW a bit boring; I was always champing at the bit to get into the real Highlands, but the last couple of times the weather has been fine and the countryside has looked so beautifully green and the wild flowers so profuse that I really enjoyed it.
At Balmaha I bought food and water at the shop then carried beside Loch Lomond.There was a lovely holiday atmostphere with children in swimming and families having barbecues on the shore.
As the evening progressed I began to wonder where to spend the night . Previously I have slept under a rock or just bedded down in my bivvy bag on the path . However the two hazards of sleeping out in this area are the rain and the midges- there was no rain but the midges were fierce.
I followed a new sign pointing out the lower route of the West Highland Way( which I have never done before as I normally keep to the upper track) and chanced upon the Rowchoish bothy. I normally try to get beyond Inversnaid on the first day but the bothy was a chance of a midge free night so I decided to stay. There were three guys from East London there and later an unexpected but enchanting visitor: Hearing a rustling noise in the eaves I put my headtorch on and there sat a pine marten chewing a piece of plastic. For a while he hid behind a beam but his tail was hanging down in clear view.
The Londoners asked whether I minded that they had set an alarm for 8am, I said that I too was planning an early start, but I didn't have the heart to tell them that I had set my alarm for 3.30am. I was back on the trail by 4.00 am.
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| Loch Lomond on Tuesday-it was a beautiful sunny afternoon. |
I found running on the second day quite tough partly because I didn't get any coffee in the morning! I had hoped to get some at Beinglas but they were not yet open when I passed. It was a beautiful day although it became cloudy later on. The lack of caffeine and tiredness started to tell on me by the time I reached the switchback path through the forest above Crianlarich and I fell and grazed my arm.
At Strathfillan campsite I finally got some coffee and it was very welcome.Refreshed I picked up speed and arrived at Bridge of Orchy at midday nearly three hours before my train: I could have spent longer in bed! I treated myself to a pint of guiness in the hotel.
At home I had a bath, a nice meal, and a good sleep before getting the morning train back to Bridge of Orchy for the final leg. The forecast for Wednesday was dire - The weather map showed a band of rain sweeping across Scotland . In the event it wasn't too bad , the rain was persistent but only heavy at times, and it was surprisingly warm. The sixty miles over the previous two days were telling on my legs but I was able to keep up a reasonable pace.
At Kingshouse I spoke to a man in a high viz vest who told me that they are going to knock most of the hotel down and build a bigger version! The Kings House is a historic 17th century hotel(one of the oldest licensed premises in the country) with a lot of character, and is in an iconic position at the gateway to Glencoe. I do hope they don't lose that character in the modernization, and that some of the older parts will be retained ( apparently the climber's bar is staying).
I reached Kinlochleven by 2pm but struggled on the climb on to the Lairig Mor, however even in the rain the pass is a beautiful place and I was able to savour this last section.
I cheated on the final mile because Helen had come to the Braveheart car park and was waiting too pick me up.
As always doing the WHW is a very satisfying way of training , it is a route I know and love but it doesn't get any easier. It is a good test of fitness which at the moment is a bit lacking.
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| Sketch of two ladies on the train from Bridge of Orchy |
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