Mini Cards

 Recently, in an attempt to keep in touch with more of my friends I have been painting small landscapes and making them into cards. The advantage is that it only takes me an hour or so to paint one, so I can make and  send more. Also it gives me a chance to paint more scenes and try out different compositions. 

They are all from photos taken on my mobile phone. The finished cards measure 9.5 by 6.5 cms.

Above are two I did today , below some others I did earlier in the year.

 

And some more 

John Kynaston

 It was a terrible shock to hear that our good friend and ultrarunning legend John Kynaston had passed away a few weeks ago.

Like a huge number of people I was privileged to know John and call him a friend although we only met occasionally at races.

 John touched a lot of people's lives through his blog and podcasts and by pure dint of being so friendly and upbeat.  He was always reaching out to people and it didn't matter if you were an elite ultramarathoner or back of the field jogger. He would chat to you and inspire you no matter who you were.

I remember during the 2018 Ring O Fire Race. At the end of each day when most people just concentrated on getting fed and rested, John would be filming and recording his impressions of the day for the benefit of his blog readers.

 I often found that after a race in which John had taken part that by the time we had driven home and had some food John's race report would already be on the internet sometimes with an apology that he had not yet had time to edit his race video. He loved to plan and always had goals set for his running year and prepared numerous spreadsheets. Everything was tabulated and recorded and he would have a guess my time competition for big races with good prizes for those closest to his actual time.

It was John who inspired me to achieve a sub twenty hour West Highland Way Race; I saw that he had done it through solid and methodical training and knew that his race times were not dissimilar to mine.

The last time I saw John I ran with him for a short distance of the Devil o the Highlands Race on a blisteringly hot day in 2019. I was just spectating , he was running the race. He had not long completed the Dragon's Back; an epic multi day race across the mountains of Wales. He recommended it to me saying it was the sort of race I would enjoy. I lamented that I (though 8 years his junior) no longer had the fitness for a race like that.  Advancing years did not seem to phase John, if anything his running plans became more ambitious although he was slower than at his peak. If it wasn't for the pandemic John would have been running the Spine Race this January which is a continuous race over the 270 miles of the Pennine Way and must be one of the toughest  ultraraces in the UK if not the world.

However superb a runner he may have been, without a doubt what people will remember John for is his unfailing cheeriness his ever present smile, and his generosity of spirit.

 It is unbelievable that someone with such a huge and giving heart should have suffered a heart attack and not whilst completing an epic ultramarathon, but in the early hours of the morning .

Rest In Peace John , We will miss you.

Canna

 Coronavirus has of course been a disaster for humanity but one little unexpected perk was that I was forced to spend three days on the island of Canna this summer.

 I go there most years for work purposes. It is always a rush to get the everything done in time for the ferry back to Mallaig, However this year due to the corona virus restrictions the ferry service was reduced so it was not possible to get out and  back in one day. Consequently I had to stay for three days and had plenty of time to do the work and explore the island, swim in the sea and even sample the excellent home brewed beer at the cafe. 

Of all the Small Isles Canna is probably my favourite. It is big enough to have remote areas but is small enough to feel intimate. There is plenty of history but it is linked to the present with the Mackinnon family still farming there as they have done for centuries. Around Canna House there is a small wood but there is also bleak moorland, little hills, dramatic cliffs and beautiful beaches. It would be stretching it a bit to say it is Scotland in microcosm, but there is certainly a great variety of landscape for such a small island. None of this quite explains the atmosphere of the place which is so friendly and welcoming. It is difficult to be on Canna and not have a smile on one's face.

The above picture shows some of the dramatic cliffs on the west end of the island.

North Face

Here is a recent painting of the North Face of Ben Nevis under winter conditions.There has already been some snow falls on the higher tops although not quite as much as this. Last weekend we ran up the tourist path to the half way lochan and then around to towards the C.I.C. hut which sits below the cliffs of the North Face. Even though it wasn't many busy it was a relief to to  turn off the tourist path and  head up the valley to enjoy the remoteness and stunning beauty of Allt a Mhuilinn. The weather was fantastic.There was some atmospheric cloud drifting around the corries of the Ben but the sky above was blue. Snow delineated the crags and the the lower slopes of the hills were a rich autumnal brown. We took lots of photographs of the North Face to add to the great many we already have of this stunning view.

                                                  DULCE ET DECORUM EST
Bent double, like beggars under sacks,
Knock-kneed, coughing like hags, we cursed through sludge,
Till on the haunting flares we turned our backs
And towards our distance rest began to trudge.
Men marched asleep. Many had lost their boots
But limped on, blood-shod. All went lame; all blind;
Drunk with fatigue; deaf even to the hoots
Of tired outstripped Five-Nines that dropped behind.

Gas !GAS! Quick, boys!- An ecstasy of fumbling
Fitting the clumsy helmets just in time;
But someone still was yelling out and stumbling,
And flound'ring like a man in fire or lime.....
Dim, through the misty panes and thick green light,
As under a green sea, I see him drowning.

In all my dreams before my helpless sight,
He plunges at me guttering, choking, drowning.

If in some smothering dreams you too could pace
Behind the wagon that we flung him in,
And watch the white eyes writhing in his face,
His hanging face, like a devil's sick of sin;
If you could hear, at every jolt, the blood
Come gargling from the froth-corrupted lungs,
Obscene as cancer, bitter as the cud
Of vile, incurable sores on innocent tongues,-
My friend you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori.

by Wilfred Owen  18/03/1893-04/11/1918
It is said that his parents received the telegram telling them of his death as the bells rang out announcing the Armistice.
,

Run from Corrour Station

One of our regular runs  is to get the train to Corrour and then run back home. It is nothing  epic; 17-18 miles on boggy paths and tracks with a moderate amount  of climbing but a net downhill. It is a good run on a bad weather day - we know the route well, and once you step off the train you have no option but to run all the way home. Actually that is not quite true - you could sit in the wonderfully warm and  cosy Station House Restaurant and sip coffee until the afternoon train came to whisk you back to Spean Bridge (on some days when it has been lashing  with rain this has been tempting!) On fine days there is lots of options to add in hills or lengthen the route .Even to run to Fort William via Glen Nevis but that is extremely boggy.
For the last week the weather has been unrelentingly bad - almost continual rain. Oban has had floods and  there have been landslides elsewhere in the Highlands. Yesterday I had a day off and expecting more rain we jumped on the lunchtime train to Corrour, which at 1339 feet above sea level is the highest train station in Britain and often very cold. However to our surprise it was a glorious day; both warm and  sunny. The hills which are turning golden brown at this time of year looked stunning. The stags were roaring too which added to the atmosphere of rugged wilderness.

Loch Treig

The first stage of the run is to Loch Treig and past the sadly boarded up Creag Ghuanach Lodge. From there you climb through the hills  on a boggy path to the Lairig Leacach which is hemmed in by Stob Coire Easain on the right and Stob Ban and Stob Choire Claurigh on the left. We often stop at the little bothy  for a breather and a chat with any walkers there.A bit more climbing then you start the descent towards Spean Bridge which is about 8 miles further on.

The track beyond the Lairig looking down into the sunlit glen

Lastly one reaches the Leanachan Forest which yesterday was delightful, the birds were singing the sun shining and  the trees were a medley of autumnal shades - yellows oranges and browns. We arrived home well satisfied with our afternoon trot through the hills.

Creag Meagaidh

Last week I went to Creag Meagaidh, which has recently become one of my favourite Munros to run up.It lies close to the A86 half way between the Lochaber mountains and the Cairngorms. Previously I have climbed it by the westerly ridge Creag na Cailliche from Moy this a steep and rough ascent although it does give one the opportunity to traverse the entire plateau to get to the top. Strangely I hadn't attempted the more conventional route from the main car park up Allt Coire Ardair until a few months ago. When I did try this I realised how delightful it was. There is a good trail for most of the way - steep enough to be hard work but still runable . First through some attractive woodland then up a broad glen This leads to the beautiful Lochan a Choire which is  surrounded by dark foreboding cliffs. Beyond this the path is steep and with lots of scree until one gets to the bealach between Stob Poite Coire Ardair and Creag Meagaidh. The summit is about a km away across the sloping plateau.

Last week the weather had been kind all he way up but once on the plateau I could see a squall approaching from the west. Half way across the plateau the wind became quite ferocious and very cold and the visibility deteriorated .Rain then hail lashed down. There is a false summit just before the true top called Mad Meg's Cairn . Apparently a  poor lady who committed suicide in the 18th century was buried there by her family as it was forbidden for suicides to be buried in church yards. I decided to turn around there rather than continue to the true summit.Even so I was chilled to the bone and didn't warm up until I was back to the lochan. Then of course the clouds cleared and beyond the lowering shadow of the cliffs the sides of the glen were illuminated by bright sunshine. The painting below is from a photo I took at that point.

Yesterday I was meant to go to Rum but the capricious Scottish weather meant that the return ferry was cancelled.
 Instead  we took the train to Corrour and ran home through the wind and the rain sloshing our way through bogs and streams, and having a thoroughly good time.

The islands of Eigg (on the left) and Rum from Mallaig on a clam day.

Ring o Fire 2018

 A few weeks ago we completed the Ring O Fire Race in Anglesey for the 4th time .
I did  a reasonable amount of training chiefly comprising of 35 mile runs once every week to 10 days. I had also spent a week in Essex during  some very hot weather during which I ran about a hundred miles. However my fitness was still very lacking.
We stayed near Beaumaris which is a picture postcard like coastal town with lots of interesting shops and  cafes. We arrived a day before the race which gave us the chance to buy last minute supplies and recover from the long drive south.
The race starts at the Breakwater Park at Holyhead which is on a separate smaller island off Angelsey. It was great to meet up with old friends including John Kynaston who we know from the West Highland Way Race and also the Hardmoors110.
The race started at 1pm. I had expected cold and wet weather but it turned out to be hot and sunny. In fact many of the runners suffered from the heat.The initial part of the race is not that inspiring - through the streets of Holyhead and parkland  beyond. However this soon gives way to the beautiful coastline. It is quite flat until the second  checkpoint at Church Bay when the cliffs and bays start. From then on the scenery was gorgeous . Time after time we would turn a corner to find another idyllic deserted sandy bay wreathed with cliffs and set off against a turquoise sea and cloudless blue sky. We saw quite a few choughs- rare birds looking  like crows but with an orange beak and a distinctive call.
Before Wylfa power station checkpoint there is a shingle spit that one has to run along , I always find this hard .The shingle is particularly strength sapping . Consequently I was very glad to to get to the checkpoint. Despite eating and drinking I struggled to get going afterwards and the group of runner I was with got ahead. Gradually though I recovered and reeled some of them in.Some of the biggest hills occur between Cemaes and Bull Bay, but again the scenery is fantastic.
I was pleased to finally arrive in Almwch in daylight after a really enjoyable days' running.

Day 2 was cooler and overcast.I started off quite well and enjoyed a good second breakfast and mug of tea at Ligny Bay. The owner of the cafe there had very kindly provided free food for all the runners. Soon the tiredness started to kick in and my pace slowed.Unusually I ran on my own for most of the day. I didn't see a single runner from Beaumaris until Newborough forest. My parents met me at Beaumaris and I had phoned ahead to ask them to buy me a cup of tea and a J20. Although still overcast it was quite warm and the ice cold J20 was very welcome.
It is a long way ( 66 miles) on day 2 but gradually the miles passed despite my snail like pace. On Newborough Beach I could see no one until I was almost at the honesty book flag. Then I spotted a rapidly approaching runner. I was only a few hundred yards beyond the honesty book when the runner overtook me.What a rate he was going! I later learnt that he had had a bad patch at Penmon Point but had recovered after a rest and a pie and chips in Beaumaris.
It was dark when I left the last checkpoint for the last 10km to Aberfraw boosted my some lovely spicy lentil soup. I managed the route OK despite the intense blackness of the moonless night. At Aberfraw the marshals were very attentive as usual and I was able to enjoy multiple mugs of tea and two bowls of pasta.

On Day 3 I was very stiff and my left hip was sore- I could barely run at the start. Fortunately my hip eased off and I was able to get going - otherwise it would have been a very long walk. Helen my wife always does well on Day 3 so I was pleased when I managed to catch up with her. We ran together through Rhosneigr  where a we all got  a second breakfast courtesy of Sandy's Bistro. Helen got ahead of me just before Four mile Bridge  as I started to flag. The weather had been forecast to be good but in the event  we had fine drizzle on and off  all day.
Before the beautiful Silver Bay I missed a turning and had to back track. Fortunately I didn't loose too much time. Also I didn't miss the  honesty book unlike two poor runners who we met a few miles later on who must have added at least an hour to their time returning to pick up a page from the honesty book.
At Trearddur Bay bought myself a mug of tea from a cafe .
I always struggle on the third day and  this year was no exception . I felt that my breathing was quite compromised and I as restricted to a survival shuffle. I kept passing and  being passed by a tall runner who was striding  along but who I never saw running . I was sure I would be able to get ahead but he left me for dust climbing the last hill of the race. Holy mountain was as beautiful as ever.
Finally I was running across the field to the sounds of Johnny Cash singing 'Ring O Fire' . It was all over for another year except for cheering, drinking beer and chatting with friends.
John Bottomley was first runner home in an amazing time of 23 hours and 23 minutes. Patrizia Sini was first lady in 29 hours and 9 minutes.Helen was 3rd lady.

A view from  Henlleys in Beaumaris (where we stayed before and after the race) looking across the Menai Strait.

After a day relaxing day in Beaumaris we sadly started the long drive home.It had been a very enjoyable holiday, and  the Ring O Fire was as always a fantastic race.We will be back!

Some Recent Paintings

Loch Lochy

Sketching has taken a back seat recently ( as has this blog) because work has been very busy. However I have completed a few paintings which I have posted here.
 The weather has been colder this winter than we normally experience on the west coast and there have been  some glorious bright frosty days with the mountains looking very alpine. The ice climbers and skiers have had a very good season. Last Thursday I went up Ben Nevis in beautiful weather, although the top was in cloud .The ruins of the observatory were completely buried and the summit cairn which sits on a rock pedestal about 12 foot high was only just poking out of the surface of the snow.

 I find it far more pleasant climbing the Ben in the snow because my knees get less of a battering on the way down. In fact going down was very quick as I was able to glissade ( ie slide on my bum using an ice axe to control speed) down some sections- great fun but cold when you are wearing shorts! I took lots of photos which I hope to paint  soon. I avoided the last section of the tourist path by taking the path to the right of the Half Way Lochan and down to Torlundy.

Loch Lochy from the A82


Loch Eil from Torlundy.

Snowy Weather

I haven't written a blog post for a few weeks partly due to a lack of material . However I now realise that I have completed quite a few paintings. Here is a selection:
 Below is a picture I painted from a photo taken on a snowy run to Gairlochy and  along the Caledonian canal.We have had more snow this Winter than any other in the six years I've lived on the West coast.

The River at Gairlochy

A few weeks ago we ran out to Invermallie bothy on Loch Arkaig , a large well appointed bothy that I would like to stay in one day . On the way back there was a glorious sunset over the loch.

Sunset at Loch Arkaig

The Blackwater Chelmer Canal

Above is a painting of the canal near my parents home in Essex- one of my favourite running  routes. This reminds me that summer will return!

Ben Nevis from Carn Mor Dearg

Last weekend we had a lot of snow. I climbed Carn Mor Dearg (the first mountain east of Ben Nevis). Once I had left the forest above Torlundy the mist cleared and I was in bright sunshine. A carpet of cloud filled the valley below with an  endless chain of  peaks poking through. The conditions were perfect! I was glad to find that somebody had already blazed the trail as the snow was thigh deep in places.
The above picture is from a photo I took on the way down. The sun was getting low but was illuminating a patch of cloud on top of Ben Nevis and the upper slopes of Carn Mor Dearg;

The River Lochy

Finally another painting of the river at Gairlochy  on another snowy day.

Winter Weather

We have had a good variety of weather over the last week. First there was high winds and rain. I was meant to go to Glen Dessary but the road beside Loch Arkaig was flooded.I tried to get through;driving very slowly and stoppng frequently to measure the depth of the water ahead. However once it started to to get as high as the air intake of the van I gave up and  backed up the single track road to dry land.
Later looking at the manual I read "When driving through water do not stop, do not go in water above the bottom of the body of the van and do not reverse."Fortunately despite doing three things wrong the vehicle appears unscathed. Two days later the weather changed completely and we had a dump of snow. The mountains looked amazing with their white coating and running with soft dry snow underfoot was delightful.
Today it was warmer and so was less pleasant; cold sleety rain rather than snow. It was very slippery as much of the snow had turned to ice. We went for a run on the forest trails under Aonach Mor but eventually retreated to the Pinemarten cafe for a coffee and the above sketch.

Aonach Mor

Two weeks ago we jogged up to the top restaurant on Aonach Mor . I painted the above sketch looking west down the length of Loch Eil.Since then there have been several falls of snow so the view would now be much more wintry.

Above is a quick pencil sketch of Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg on a rare clear day.

Autumn Sunrise

The weather over the last few weeks has been very wet but recently rather than monotonous  continual drizzle we have had sharp sudden showers interspersed with dramatic skies - big dark centred clouds and splashes of blue sky.On the hills the grasses and  bracken have turned to beautiful red russet tones;Autumn seems to have come on very suddenly.
However this week we had two days - yes two whole days without rain. Monday was a spectacular day; I left home before 6 am to run to work. Passing through fields in total darkness the gates glittered with frost in the beam of my head torch and the frozen grass crunched under my feet..Above there were a few stars visible. It was the first really frosty morning since the Spring.
 Recently most of my running commute has been in the dark but on Monday due to the change in the clocks there was soon a glimmer of dawn in the East. This developed until the underside of a bank of cloud was illuminated a gorgeous salmon pink by the first rays of the sun . As I ran past Nevis Range and on towards Torlundy the cloud cleared though squally showers could be seen beyond the mountains. The colours brightened and brightened until Ben  Nevis was silhouetted against a brilliant yellow and orange sky fading to blue /purple clouds to the South. It really did look as if the sky was on fire. The summit of the Ben was wreathed in pink tinged clouds.I took lots of photographs and  nearly collided with a cyclist as I couldn't take my eyes off the heavens.
 Within an hour of these pyrotechnics the sky had returned to its normal gun metal gray.

Ben Nevis- painted from a photo taken from Torlundy on Monday

Small Paintings

Today I've been painting some small ( 14cm x 9cm) pictures for sale at The Gallery In The Fort; a small gallery in town. Here is a selection.

Loch Arkaig

Loch Lochy

The North Face of Ben Nevis

Loch Linnhe

The loch pictures are all similar in composition but the fun bit is painting the skies and  the reflections in the water. Painting small pictures allows some experimentation with techniques without the risk of ruining a large painting .

Visit to Kinbreak Bothy

I was recently given a copy of The Scottish Bothy Bible by Geoff Allan.
It is a lovely book lavishly illustrated with photographs of the hills and the bothies. I realised that despite having lived in Lochaber for 5 years I haven't stayed in many of the local bothies. Seeking to remedy this I went to Kinbreak bothy in Glenkingie last weekend.
 I got Helen to drop me off at Glenfinnan .I took the track north under the viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter movie and on to Glenfinnan Lodge.Beyond there the path climbs to col and then descends into Gleann Cuirnean. It was very dramatic landscape although low cloud mist and rain obscured most of it.The stags were rutting; their loud bellowing adding to the gothic atmosphere.

Looking from the col into Gleann Cuirnean

.Lower down the path became boggy and narrow. There were some beautiful waterfalls. Finally I was sloshing through the swamp in Glendessary , I spotted two wild boar but they were quite small and ran away squealing.  Next I took the steep path over to Glenkingie, It started off as a good track but soon became very boggy. Several times I went in up to my hips. I was was quite relieved when I finally spotted the red roof of the Kinbreak bothy. There was once a house  at Kinbreak which was inhabited until the 1940's by the local shepherd, however it is now a ruin and  only the byre remains.
The ground floor of the bothy is very basic with a cobbled floor and stone walls but the loft has been made into a snug living space . There are a couple of settles a fireplace and a table .
I set up my little wood stove in the fire place and brewed a mug of tea with a few bits of wood  I had carried in. After eating I drank some whisky  then went to bed feeling well satisfied with my day.The bothy book had several references to Larry the bothy mouse. I heard him in the night scampering  here and  there but it was too dark to see what he was up to.
I rose early and was away by 6.30 .Crossing the burn by the bothy in the dark was tricky as it was swollen by all the recent rain.I trudged back over the hill and  through the bogs and was in Glendessary by 8am . I then had a long trek along the road beside Loch Arkaig.The road was initially a relief after the bogs but soon I was wishing for an end to the tarmac. The morning started wet and windy but later the weather cleared and there were brief periods of sunshine.The loch was glorious with the autumn colours starting  to show on the hills and the water reflecting  the blue sky.
Loch Arkaig is very long but eventually I reached its head and  went through  the dark mile to Clunes.(The dark mile is stretch of road hemmed in by the hills creating a damp, dark and mossy place) .At Clunes I managed to get a phone signal so phoned Helen for a lift home. I could have jogged the remaining  7 miles but was a bit weary of the road.
I really enjoyed staying at Kinbreak and am inspired to visit more local bothies.

Loch Arkaig Looking West

Ben Nevis Ultra

Last weekend we attempted the Ben Nevis ultra.We knew from our recce's of the route that there was no chance that we could complete the whole course without being timed out.There had been some criticism on face book that the cut offs were too severe. Most races have cut offs based on the likelihood of a runner reaching the next checkpoint before that checkpoint's cut off, which is based on the time taken to reach the following checkpoint before its cut off and so on until the end The idea being that if you keep within the cut offs you have a realistic chance of reaching the end before the race closes. Obviously the runners at the back of the field run slower especially late in the race so most races have increasingly generous cut offs at the later checkpoints .Hopefully this means that race marshals can close a checkpoint at the cut off time and get home rather than having to wait an indeterminate number of hours for stragglers to come in. The Ben Nevis Ultra was the other way round in that the cut offs were stricter later on. For example the Nevis Range closed at 5.30 leaving only  31/2 hours to reach Glen Nevis before the cut off. Climbing Carn Mor Dearg, traversing the arrete and climbing and descending Ben Nevis in 31/2 hours would be really difficult for me with fresh legs but after 50 miles through hills and bogs- not a chance.
However the organizer did arrange an early start for the slower runners.
We drove to Kinlochleven on Friday and registered . We slept in the car for a few hours and got the 3 am bus for the early start at 5 am . The first part of the route was on a good track ( the Corrieyairack Pass) so knowing what was ahead I was determined to cover the ground as fast as I could .The Pass is gorgeous but is marred by some horrendous electricity pylons.
 Beyond the first checkpoint at the Melgarve bothy the bog began. It was every bit as bad as I remembered from my recces, although this time I didn't see any fish swimming along the path. However at one point I was in green mush up to the tops of my hips. I was worried I might loose my shoes in the ooze but managed to keep them on. Knowing the route definitely helped and I  to kept my place until the fast guys from the 6 o clock start  started to overtake me. One runner said ( referring to the bog) "This wasn't in the route description." Indeed although there was lots about the Carn Mor Dearg arrete in the description and route videos but nothing about the bog. Helen says that a rubber ring and snorkel should have been included in the list of mandatory equipment!
By the time I got to  the Braeroy support point I was tired- the bogs having taken their toll. However I was revived by some food and a mug of tea , Helen and our friend Sharon arrived soon afterwards. Sharon is an awesome runner and was off like a shot. I went on slowly and Helen soon caught me up. We ran the next section together; a swampy climb past some beautiful waterfalls. It was raining and not that warm. I started to experience  problems with breathing. My breath was making a whistling sound and I felt as if I was trying  to inhale through a tiny hole. Helen went ahead as she was getting  cold and I struggled on .From Inverlair I walked quite a lot but even so was struggling to breath properly. I was overtaken by quite a lot of runners. I considered dropping out at Corriechoile believing that I had no chance of reaching Nevis Range before the cut off. However the lovely ladies at the checkpoint said that it was only 12 km and that I had loads of time. I carried on slowly and was again overtaken by more runners. Gradually my chest improved and I was able to speed up a little. I reached Nevis range with quarter of an hour to spare. By now the rain had cleared away and it was a beautiful evening.I asked if it was O.K. to continue ( even though I had no chance of reaching Glen Nevis by 9pm) They said it was fine as long as I left by 5.30. So on I went . I was very emotional as my goal at the start of the race was to do the arrete and  the Ben if I possibly could but until then I had thought it an impossibility.

Above is the view of Carn Mor Dearg ( on the left) the arrete and the Ben as I climbed the familiar path up the Allt a Mhuilinn valley. Needless to say I didn't sketch this at the time! I painted it this week from a photo I took on my phone.
 The climb up Carn Mor Dearg starts boggy but soon improves. I thought that I was the last to leave the checkpoint before the cut off but soon I saw 4 or 5 runners on the hill behind me.I was very slow on the climb and was overtaken by the others however I did enjoy it , the views over the valley with Loch Eil shining  in the sun were spectacular. On the summit were two marshals who were bravely coping with the elements  ( it was now cold and windy) I thanked them for being there for me and continued down to the arrete as darkness fell.  Being stiff and a bit wobbly on my feet I crossed the arrete with care. The rocks were wet and greasy but it was still great fun.It was now completely dark. I managed to overtake a group of runners . I was glad that I had inadvertently packed an extra top in my rucksack which I was now wearing.There were marshals on the ridge watching out for us and recording our numbers. The climb to the summit of Ben Nevis took much longer than normal but finally I was at the top which was misty . I saw a light over to my left which I guessed was the marshals but I could only see the summit cairn when I was standing right next to it. The two cheerful ladies at the top seemed impressed when I whipped out my compass and a detailed map of the summit plateau  in order to take a bearing. Even though I know the Ben well it would be a shame to go wrong in the mist and darkness . It is a long way down off the Ben at any time but after 55 miles  and in the pitch black it took a while . I passed some more runners going even more slowly than me
.Finally nearly 3 hours after the cut off time (!) I arrived at Glen Nevis . There were still another 10 runners on the mountain behind me. Although I had failed to reach the end of the race I still felt that I had achieved a lot. Crossing the arrete and climbing the Ben were definitely the highlights  of the race.As I said at the start it was curious that the organisers had arranged the cut offs so that the marshals had to wait for 3-4 hours after the cut off for the last runners to arrive.
I could have understood it if the cut offs were designed to keep people from having to cross the arrete and  climb the Ben in the dark, but this wasn't the case . Instead we were prevented from doing the ( relatively) easy last section . However I was extremely grateful that I was able to do the mountain section and the marshals were still waiting for me to arrange transport back to Kinlochleven.

The majority of the runners were timed out in the race although  the cut off at the finish was relaxed so that more could get a finishers medal. It was a great race which I thoroughly enjoyed apart from my breathing problems in the middle. Hopefully the organizers will change the cut offs next time so that it wont become a race for the elite runners only.
Donald Campbell was first in an incredible 12.20.53,
Casper Kars Sijpesteijin was second in 12.39.17.
The first lady was Mira Rae from Nepal who was 5th overall and came home in 14.24.08
 Second lady was Andrea Huser from Switzerland who did 14.49.45
40 people out of 114 starters were given finisher medals although the last home arrived in Kinlochleven  2 hours and 45 minutes after the original race finish at midnight. Rarely can coming last and hours beyond the cut off be such a tremendous achievement!

Trip to Knoydart

Last Friday I had an enjoyable trip to Knoydart . Knoydart is not an island but is only accessible by a long hike from Kinlochhourn or a 45 minute boat trip. In the past when roads were almost universally bad on the west coast, Knoydart would have been no more remote than anywhere else. In fact the sheltered bay where the village of Inverie is situated would make it a safe haven for ships. According to Cameron MacNeish in his Munro book there is an etching from the 19th century showing 40 -50 trading ships in Barrisdale Bay on the north side of the peninsular. Nowadays Knoydart mainly attracts tourists, walkers, fishermen and deerstalkers but there is still some farming. Getting there is a bit of an adventure.
On Friday I went from Mallaig. The weather had been extremely wet so I packed extra clothes and waterproofs. However by good fortune once out of Mallaig harbour the clouds cleared and it was a delightful day. Half way there the ferry stopped so we could watch a minke whale. Minkes weigh 4-5 tonnes and can be up to 10 metres long . It was exciting to see it periodically surfacing about 50 yards from the boat but then it reappeared no more than 15 feet away! I was on the phone at the time to my Dad as it was his birthday and I almost dropped my mobile. Its broad back was so close I felt I could have reached out and touched it; you could see every detail of its blow hole and dorsal fin. It is the biggest animal I have ever seen and that was the closest I have ever been to one.

 The good weather continued and my day outside went smoothly so I was finished well before the ferry returned . The clients offered to take me back in their speed boat. This turned out to be much more of an exhilarating ride than expected. We were travelling into the wind and as our speed increased the little boat started to hit the waves hard, bouncing us out of our seats. I began to worry that the samples that I had spent the last few hours collecting might disappear over the side.Also the wind was increasing and rain started to lash our faces. I was quite glad that at the start I had on a whim accepted the offered life jacket! However I needn't have worried as the helmsman decreased the speed and steered closer to the shore where the water was calmer .  In no time we where in Mallaig slightly breathless and completely soaked by the now torrential rain and the spray.

The above picture is of the same stretch of water but from a photo taken on a calm day on the way back from the Isle of Canna.

Ring O Fire Race

For the past three years we have really enjoyed running the Ring O Fire( a race that circumnavigates the Island of Anglesey in Wales in three days). This time we decided to help marshal instead.
 On Friday we arrived at the Breakwater Park at 9am  and met up with the race directors James and  Quentin and the other marshals. It was a beautiful day though rather hot for the runners.  Our first checkpoint was Alaw Bridge which was quite hectic as the runners were close together .After a break  we went to Wylfa power Station .At this stage the distance was starting to tell on some of the runners and unfortunately one lady was timed out . Our next task was to retrieve the honesty book and flag from along the route . So we followed the last runner out and had an enjoyable jog along the coast - this is one of my favourite parts of the route with dramatic cliffs and ruins. However by the time we got back to our car it was after 11pm.
We slept at the Amlwch Leisure Centre and were woken as always by the voice of Johnny Cash singing the  Ring O Fire at 4.30 am. Again we were at the first check point of the day at Llgwy Beach. When we arrived it was still cold and we were treated to a beautiful sunrise over the sea(see picture below)The cafe there opened early and provided some amazing food - bacon baps , quiches and various other savoury bites, all free of charge to the runners. Once the final competitor had gone through and we had cleared up we had some time to spare so we explored the nearby ruins of a settlement from the time of the Romans. By now it was very warm and sunny and we had a tranquil time wandering through the green fields with the blue sea in the distance.

Sketch of the little cafe at Llgwy Bay

Sunrise over the sea at Llgwy ( from a photograph)

Next up was the checkpoint at The Sea Zoo We had a bit of a wait until the first runners came so we sat in the sun and drank cups of tea in the cafe.

Pencil sketch of the Welsh mainland from the Sea Zoo

The first runners coming through seemed remarkably fresh considering the heat but then they still had a long way to go. We had to leave at 4.30 to go to Newborough Forest the last check point of the day. The past 3 years have taught me that by the time they get to Newborough foret I am exhausted and struggling to run the last leg. Sandy's Bistro in Rhosneigir had provided a delicious lentil soup for the runners which seemed to go down very well.There was also a good selection of other sweet and savoury foods.Finally we went to Aberffraw to help serve pasta and ratatouille . The last runners came in just before 2am

At 4.30 the music was on again and the jumble of bodies lying on the floor of the little village hall groggily assembled in to a  motley crowd of runners. Nobody looked good at this stage as competitor and  marshals alike were suffering from sleep deprivation and physical exhaustion. After two glorious days of sunshine the rain was now lashing down. The first check point was at Sandy's Bistro where hot drinks and bacon baps were provided. We missed the next c.p. and went straight to Trearddur  Bay. By now most of the runners were familiar to us and we tried to encourage the as best we could.It was still raining and the puddles in the car park got deeper and coalesced until the checkpoint tent was virtually an island!

Lastly we returned to the Breakwater Park where it had all started three days before. I found it quite emotional seeing the runners come in as it brought back memories of my finishes. We had seen these runners suffer over the weekend, we had fed them and refilled their water bottles.Heard about their woes and mishaps and had consoled and encouraged them Now it  was great to see them finally triumph . It is a very tough race but with a wonderful atmosphere.

Sunday night was party night for the marshals we were treated to a slap up meal and free drinks at Sandy's Bistro . We really enjoyed marshaling and made some good friends .I feel that Bing and Quentin do an amazing job organising the Ring O Fire which is getting better and better every year.

The first man home  was Simon Sikora in a cumulative  time of 23 hours 15minutes and 4 seconds. He was an hour and 23 minutes ahead of the next  runner!

Sally Ford was the first Lady and 5th overall in a time of 26 hours 37 minutes  and 6 seconds

There were 51 finishers out of 87 starters.

 Roll on next September !

CMD Arrete before work

I've had a few good days in the mountains recently.
 Last week I had a day off but was on call during the evening. I spent most of the day getting to work taking in a few hills on the way. The weather was very good and  I had great views throughout. I went  from the Nevis Range up Aonach Mor .From the summit I went south  towards Aonach Beag , dropped down the steep path to the valley then climbed  Carn Mor Dearg . From there a delightfully airy arrete leads on to Ben Nevis itself . The great thing about the arrete is that there is plenty of exposure but no real danger . In good weather one can hop from rock to rock and feel like a real mountaineer, if it is wet or  windy one can take one of the little side paths avoiding any scrambling.
 Once on  the slope of Ben Nevis itself there is a steep rocky climb to the summit.It is good to stop and catch ones breath and take in the amazing view of row upon row of mountains with no sign of civilization - looking towards the south east there are no roads or buildings visible.
In contrast once over the lip of the plateau  any sense of mountain seclusion and wilderness is sadly wiped out by the crowds of people .It always seems that come rain or shine every man,woman, child  and their dog are on the top of Ben Nevis and that the streets of Fort William must be empty. Of course it is really good that so many people make the effort to climb Britain's highest mountain, but it is always a shock after enjoying hours of isolation.
I'm not a great fan of the tourist path . The panorama is spectacular, (if it is clear) Loch Linnhe , Loch Eil shining like mirrors to the west. However one has to spend a lot of time dodging people coming up or slowly descending. It always seems to take an inordinate amount of time to get down, but it is the biggest descent in Britain - from the highest peak down to just above sea level.
Once in the glen it was only a short trot to the office where I had a quick shower and changed. I had a busy evening/ night  at work but my 6 hour commute was great !

Looking back along the Carn Mor Dearg Arrete (painted  from a photo)

Back Home

Back at home and I seem to have bought the good weather with me. Here is a sketch I did from woodland a mile or so from our house. There was enough of a breeze to keep the midges away. The view is looking towards Aonach Mor which looked magnificent in the late afternoon sunshine.

Here's a picture I've just finished. It is from a photo taken on one of my runs to work showing early morning cloud drifting across Meall an t-Suidhe. I took the photo from Inverlochy and I'm afraid I cheated by missing out a lamp post.

Yesterday I did the sketch below from the Commando Memorial. The grey Corries and Aonach Mor were obscured by cloud so I turned round and painted the view to the west.

view

Sketch of view from the Commando memorial watercolour plus some  coloured pencil